What was first overlooked as simply a place to crash between day trips to the beach, soon became our key destination. We arrived midday by train after a five hour trip from Rome, eyes groggily opening from a morning nap. Pulling out our stuffed suitcases from the cabin, we crawled stiffly out of the train only to witness an empty station. Compared to the stops in the north, the buildings here seemed abandoned, with graffiti scattered throughout each nook and cranny.

Feeling the stress of constant travel under my belt, I began to jump to immediate conclusions. We had allocated five days of our precious three week vacation in Lecce, and at first glance, it appeared to be a regrettable mistake. Exhausted from a long trip, there was little left to do other than head to our AirBnB. We kept hope that at least the beaches would promise good weather and crystal clear water.

Walking several blocks and a few left and right turns towards the city, our surroundings began to shift. To our great relief, it didn’t take long for Lecce’s fabulous Baroque architecture to suddenly emerge as if turning a page in a book. Graffiti covered cement buildings soon became stunning marble facades. The floor at our feet matured into rich limestone smoothed out over time by disparate cultures. Laundry hung gregariously from window to window, local chatter filled bars, shop doors opened and closed, and not a tourist was in sight. The city revealed itself to be the quintessential southern Italian town, not of glamour but of authenticity. We felt like we were in a different world. One that wasn’t from our time. It was mysterious and alluring, yet welcoming. It was true to my ideal image of Italy’s south with the quiet calmness that it possessed. It was resilient, yet humble. Flushed with layer upon layer of history, requiring a lifetime to unpack all its secrets. I began to soon understand why Lecce is regarded by many as the ‘Florence of the South’.

Our AirBnB was located directly next to the Teatro Romano. It had a charming loft-style layout inside a stone-walled enclosure that somehow flooded with natural daylight. Like most places in Lecce, it was extremely well priced and although we booked somewhat last minute, there were still several charming options available. Our host Andrea was a friendly and motivated entrepreneur who made a living managing his collection of AirBnB properties. Our location was a spectacular sight to see at the start of each morning. We stepped out to greet each day with sunshine against our faces and friendly neighbours. The neighbours being a herd of elegant stray cats fed by locals and tourists.

As we spent more time in Lecce, it seemed to go against many of the negative connotations southern Italy possesses. Compared to major tourist hubs in the North; such as Venice, Florence, and Rome, the heart of Lecce felt incredibly safe. Because there were more locals, there was less of a fear of pick-pockets and inside the city, graffiti was rarely seen on walls.  Culture resonated from the piazzas. In our brief stay we witnessed an outdoor fashion show in Piazza Sant’Oronzo, street performers, and a Sunday antique market. Families with young children packed the main square, even far late into the night. It seemed as though all 100,000 of the city’s inhabitants joined together in community every evening.

My favourite day was not surprisingly, our Sunday shopping day. The antique market was unlike anything I had ever come across back home. Magazines and relics from World War I and II, handcrafted antique furniture, paintings, and even retro typewriters and electronics scattered throughout a columned courtyard. Although I was not able to find my long-desired ‘Valentine’ Olivetti Typewriter, I did find a stand with piles of maps dating back to the 1800s. As I chatted away with the man in Italian, his face and eyebrows quickly lifted. He seemed so pleased to have someone with whom to share his knowledge and affinity for history. He explained to me how he had once collected his wares, all dating before cars were even on the road. His collection was vast, covering much of Italy and France and all featuring horse-drawn carriage routes.

Towards the evening, we circled a few narrow streets of shops, landing in one particularly noteworthy called Tonda Design. It was an exquisite Art Gallery of hand crafted furniture, housewares, and jewelry, owned and operated by a husband and wife duo. All designs were derived either in-house or from locals. The curvature and choice of materials in the furniture displays were what stood out most. They used extensive application of varying shades of wood providing warm contrast against the stone walls that typically occupy Lecce apartments. In styling, it was an assimilation of retro modernism. Curved shapes that intelligently fit together, yet offering enough poignant detailing in each groove. To me, their ‘Molino Desk’ in particular was a masterpiece. What I loved about their works was that they were all a statement. Each one unique in its design, yet minimal and un-convoluted by unnecessary details. What kept consistency between the statement pieces was the homogeneous use of material. They didn’t compete with one another, but complimented. Creating something modern, yet with enough necessary detailing to stand out, is quite a challenge as any designer should know.

Eventually, I landed at the jewelry. Handcrafted in-house I fell in love with their ‘Bracciale Corian Fibia Traversa’. At first, I thought it was of bone or wood, but like most of their pieces, it was made out of aluminum hydroxide and acrylic resin, typical materials for interior designers. I purchased the bracelet and we headed off to prepare for dinner.